12 miles (5 to 6 hours)
A spectacular and strenuous circular walk following the South West Coast Path from St Ives to Zennor and then back to St Ives across ancient fields.
This walk really is a walk of two halves. The first part covers some of the most remote and breathtaking sections of the north Cornish coast.
Your start point is St Ives Porthmeor beach. From the beach you follow the well defined footpath westwards. Within minutes you realise you are in for a stunning treat. The path climbs and then the views open up.
The sea water conjures up a range of conflicting emotions. Its aqua blue is calming and inviting but its sway and vastness remind you of its power and danger. This creates a sense of wonder and excitement and spurs you westwards along the coastline.
The walk to Zennor is unrelenting. It’s around six miles long and takes around three hours. You frequently stop to take in the amazing coastal views in front and below you with the waves crashing against the cliffs and rocks. You also rest because the walk is strenuous, and at times arduous.
The path is easy to follow. It frequently bobs up and dips down to near the sea level before rising again to considerable heights. Finding your way may be easy but picking your way through is sometimes hard. For anyone who has enjoyed fell or hillwalking this will be familiar as you have to scramble around to ensure you have firm footing in some places and use you hands for balancing and leverage to hoick yourselves forward. For those used to walking on the flat, this can be a little intimidating, especially as the cliff faces are much closer than you think in some places.
The weather can also catch you out. We did the walk on a fine, sunny morning in October. We were accompanied by sunshine and a gentle breeze. The path and rocks were dry underfoot. In more challenging conditions the path may therefore be more of a struggle. Warm and waterproof clothing is always advisable.
The path takes you past a series of promontories, rocks and points all with quaint and evocative names: there’s Clodgy Point, then Hor Point, Pen Enys Point and Polgassick Rock. These are followed by Carn Naun Point, Towednack Quae Head, Mussel Point, Gala Rocks and finally Zennor Head.
Before you reach Zennor Head the path splits. The right fork follows the Coast Path onto the head itself and further westwards. Choose the left fork which is clearly signposted as the path to Zennor village itself.
Within ten minutes you see the Church and the village itself.
Well deserved rest and refreshments are available at The Tinners Arms selling lunches and refreshments.
If you are feeling energetic and want more coastal views you can head back to St Ives on the route you came. However, there’s another quicker, more direct and less punishing route across the fields.
The two options are clearly signposted next to the church. We were tired so we took the field route.
This route follows mainly open farmland and leads you right back to St Ives. Although it’s around five miles back the route is a gentle amble across fields which are separated by ancient styles and cattle grids. These solid, and in places substantial, granite objects have been in place for centuries.
As you walk you cross rich pastured fields with a variety of cattle species. To your left the coast is visible in the distance. To the right you see the hills that serve as the spine to the narrowing land of West Penwith. There’s Trendine Hill, Rosewall Hill and Trevalgan Hill.
The path trundles into and around several farmhouse and small hamlets. Eventually you can see Godrevy Island and its famous lighthouse in the distance. The sea begins to open up and the pathway slowly dips as St Ives Head comes into focus. The outskirts of the town are now visible and you soon find yourself in the town walking down towards Porthmeor Beach where your day began.
You may also be interested in;
A circular walk from Morvah to Portheras Cove
Cornwall’s coast-to-coast from St Ives to Marazion, based on the St Michael’s Way
South West Coast Path: section three – St Ives to Helston